Sepixlh kirjoitti:Optinen lukija paskainen ?
Jaa, onko näissä HI-4 optinen lukija / pickup / sensor ?
Aikaisemmat Cranet on induktiivisesti toimiva, niinkuin H-D oma elektroninen pickup.
The Crane units utilize a Hall effect sensor system.
Precisely located magnets molded into the trigger
rotor deliver accurate timing and optimum dwell. Hall effect
triggering is unaffected by dirt, oil, or other contaminants
that may get into the ignition housing.
Tässä tarina Crane HI-4 testauksesta:
1) Mittaa (sytytysvirta päällä), että kaikille puolaan tuleville liittimille tulee 12V.
2) Kokeile tulpanjohtoa vaihtamalla (mielellään uusi ja oikeanlainen)
3) Vaihda tulpat keskenään. Putsaa tulpat ensin.
4) Testaa puolan resistanssi (virta poissa).
5) Vaihda modulilta puolalle tulevat johdot (valkoinen ja musta) keskenään SEKÄ tulpanjohtojen paikat.
6) Testivalolla pyörän käydessä liitä maahan ja puolalle tulevaan johtoon. Kumpikin (valk ja musta) erikseen. Jos välkkyy kuin ruotsalainen Disco niin silloin toimii.
Jos ei välky tai on tasaista valoa niin moduli (tai johto) on rikki.
7) Cranen tekniikkatuki kertoo, että latauksen taikka muu elektroninen ongelma saattaa aiheuttaa modulin rikkovia jännitepiikkejä.
Crane Hi4 single fire ignition module has died on me. One cylinder not firing.
Here is what I found, with the aid of a guy on Crane's USA tech line. Their website has no troubleshoot guide, and factory manual only applies to dual-fire stock system on Shovels and Evos and Sportsters.
If you are firing on one cylinder and it's a coil/module issue, it's usually the rear one that goes down. In that case, bike will limp but runs poorly, very limited acceleration...and sounds like sh**t.
1)With ignition on check that you are getting 12DC volts to the coil, all three terminals. I always carry a multimeter......
Obviously, 2)swap the plug leads (I always carry one spare long HT lead. That way you can test either cylinder's spark with a new lead), 3)then even swap the plugs. You will have to clean the non-firing one as it will be contaminated with unburnt fuel.
If that all checks out OK, you have eliminated the leads and plugs as problems. My bike did start on one cylinder on the kick in each case for testing, so I assume electric starts will do the same.
4)Now test the coil. IGNITION OFF to check multimeter resistance... should be about 2.5 to 3ohms on each plug terminal - test at the terminals at the rear where module wiring attaches.
From the Hi4, the black wire attaches to the top (FRONT) plug terminal, the white to the bottom (REAR) plug terminal.
5)Switch them, and of course switch the leads to match. Now, if the rear cylinder fails to fire off the top coil terminal (which has fired the front cylinder previously) you have eliminated the coil.
6)The killer test for module failure came off Crane's tech line. Run the bike again, and get the test light. Ground the clip, and place the test-tip on the rear (wiring) of both plug terminals i.e. the top and the bottom.
The test light should flicker on and off like a Spanish disco i.e. the module is triggering the firing cycle. If you get no light or constant light at either terminal, the module is toast. I got a constant light off the terminal hosting the module's WHITE wire for rear cylinder, flickering light from front-jug wire BLACK terminal
7)The tech line said charging or other electrical problems can cause voltage spikes which can irreparably damage their modules. This one has seen several regulator failures in the last 3-4 years, though none of them this year.
Hope this helps someone else.
lainattu:
http://www.harley-davidson-hangout.com/ ... -evos.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Tuolta löytyy pdf muodossa Cranen sytkän ohjeita (ja muutakin)
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=install& ... ts%3Cbr%3E(Including+Electronics" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)#Ignitions
juuri niin kuin Smuige kertoi induktiivisesti Crane toimii